For restorers the availability of pre-bent, reproduction steel brake lines is a blessing. Why, because fabricating brake lines at home with the correct length, bends, armor, fittings and flares is darn near impossible. You'll also be pleased to know these lines meet or exceed all D.O.T. specifications for safety. The next thing you might ask as a restorer is why do I need to replace my original brake lines at all? The answer is because D.O.T. 3 & 4 brake fluids (the fluid the factory used and the fluid almost everyone uses) is hydroscopic, which means it draws fluids in, chiefly water, which over the years will corrode steel lines if the fluid was not changed regularly (and most owners did not). So, there's a good reason to change them and great reproduction brake lines available for your use.
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On steel brake lines and particularly stainless steel brake lines (because of their hardness) it is especially important to seat the flared lines into the brass blocks. The best way to do this is with brake line wrenches so you can apply adequate torque to seat the fitting. Most open end wrenches tend to round-off the fitting before it is fully seated. It is also interesting to note that brass brake blocks are ideally meant for a one-time use only.
The Vehicle Fitment Guide is to be used as a general reference. The data has been provided by our suppliers and manufacturers and may contain errors or incorrect data. Always refer to a professional to verify correct fitment for your vehicle.
||1965 - 1966
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Corvette Brake Line, Brake Master Cylinder To Block, For Cars Without Power Brakes, Steel, 1965-1966: